Handyman Plumbing Repairs in Dublin

We isolate, drain and protect before a spanner touches anything

Every job starts by shutting off at the local isolation valve (or the main stopcock if there is not one), opening the tap to drain residual pressure, and laying towels and a catch tray under the work. Where an isolation valve is missing or seized, we fit a proper one so the next repair, yours or ours, never means draining the whole house.

Threaded joints get PTFE, compression joints get a bare olive

We tape male threads clockwise (five to eight wraps, more on tapered threads) and we leave compression olives bare, because PTFE on an olive is a classic cause of weeping joints. Flexible connectors go hot to hot, cold to cold, hand-tight first, then just one to two turns past hand-tight with a spanner. No cranking, no cross-threading.

Drips traced to the real cause: washer, cartridge or seat

A dripping mixer is stripped down to find whether it is a perished rubber washer, a worn ceramic cartridge or a scored seat. We fit the correct cartridge or washer for that exact tap rather than over-tightening the head to mask it, which only destroys the seat and turns a five-minute fix into a tap replacement.

Toilets rebuilt to flush clean and seal silent

Fill and flush faults are cured at source. We clean the porcelain seat with a non-scratch pad so no grit sits under the new seal, fit the right flapper or flush-valve washer, set the fill level below the overflow and trim the flapper chain to the correct slack. Locknuts are hand-tightened plus a gentle quarter turn, never forced, because over-torquing closet bolts and tank nuts cracks the porcelain.

Waste, traps and appliances sealed and proven dry before we leave

Every trap or U-bend joint we break gets a new compression washer and is re-seated square, not pulled at an angle to reach the pipe. Washing machines and dishwashers go on sound, often anti-burst (FloodSafe) hoses, matched to the right hot or cold valve. We open valves slowly, run water or a full fill cycle, and check every joint by hand so the first wash is not the first leak.

Over-tightening plastic supply nuts, tank bolts and connectors

The cost: It takes very little torque to seat a plastic nut. The lowest bidder forces it, the thread or porcelain cracks, and the leak shows up days later when nobody is watching, so you pay again for the part, the call-out, and often a new toilet or cabinet

Wrapping PTFE tape onto compression (olive) fittings

The cost: PTFE belongs on threads, not olives. Tape on a compression joint stops the olive seating and the joint weeps slowly, the water hides in the cabinet, swells the particleboard and grows mould before anyone notices the damage

Reusing old, hardened trap and U-bend gaskets

The cost: A compressed, perished washer never re-seals once disturbed. The trap drips into the unit below, staining the base and inviting damp and drain odour, until the whole cabinet has to be torn out and replaced

Leaving a toilet running by mis-setting the fill level or flapper chain

The cost: A chain too tight or a water level above the overflow means the cistern trickles around the clock. It is invisible and silent, but it quietly runs up your water charges and wears the valve out months early